As women made great progress in fighting for their rights at the beginning of the 20th century, Vionnet defended their freedom by abolishing the long-lasting Victorian corset from women’s daily apparel. Of course, Vionnet never claimed that she invented the bias cut, but only expanded its use. She began to incorporate geometric shapes into her creations and developed a different method to cut them, called the bias cutting. Vionnet was also fascinated by modern art movements, such as Cubism. Classicism, both as an aesthetic and design philosophy, provided Vionnet with the ability to convey her vision in geometrical harmony.īas-relief frieze dress by Madeleine Vionnet, photographed by George Hoyningen-Huene for French Vogue, 1931, via Condé Nast Like the Winged Victory of Samothrace, Vionnet created dresses that awaken human beings. Dresses can be like living beings with a soul, just like the body. The flowing drapery of Vionnet’s design resembles the movement of the billowing fabric that clings to Nike’s body.
The sculpture was created as an homage to Nike, the Greek goddess of victory, and is admired for its realistic depiction of movement. The deep drape of the fabric in the style of the Greek chiton creates vertical bands of light flowing down the figure. The resemblance between the masterpiece of Hellenistic art and Vionnet’s muse is striking. Vionnet often turned to art pieces like the Winged Victory of Samothrace for her creative collections. With her master skill of draping and bias cutting dresses, she revolutionized modern fashion. Based on these artworks, she shaped her style aesthetic and combined elements of Greek sculpture and architecture to give a new dimension to the female body.
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